Today's craving: Ice cream sandwiches

Those awful ones they used to sell in the elementary-school cafeteria? With the eerie vanilla pseudo-ice cream center that melted into aerated slime, as opposed to actual ice cream? The processed chocolate substance that was neither crunchy nor chewy, in a cookie kind of way, but soft, and vaguely squishy, and would stick to your fingertips if you held it in the same place for too long?

Yeah, these.
(Should I be reading something into the fact that this image was supplied by the National Cancer Institute?)

I can remember eating these as a kid, on the rare occasions when I'd get one from a third party or scrounge together enough change to buy one on the sly (my childhood home was a house full of "ingredients", but no "food", and trying to get my mother to let me have so much as a cookie or candy bar usually involved negotiations that made the Reagan/Gorbachev summit meeting in Reykjavík look like a couple of guys getting together for beers). Tearing off the weak paper and eating the frosty-cold sandwich bite by bite, trying to keep the ice cream from compressing and oozing out the sides. Licking off the melting ice cream around the edges to keep it from leaking all over my hands. Deconstructing the sandwich by eating it layer by layer: first trying to peel off the chocolate sandwich layer in one full piece, then eating away the ice cream in the center until all that was left was a soggy chocolate sheet that could be folded up and consumed. Peeling off all the paper and licking around the sandwich, denuding the ice cream center until it was just two slices of chocolate material, one atop the other. Good times.

What I miss most about the States ... today, anyway

Driving. Not only do I miss my car, but I really miss being able to drive.
One of the Peace Corps' rules is that no volunteer is allowed to drive in their host country. For a while I wasn't precisely sure why this is; my recruiter described it as a status thing, that it wouldn't look good to your community if you were seen driving around in a car. But he seemed to be presupposing at least a couple of things: that this hypothetical vehicle would be owned by the volunteer, as opposed to being hired for a holiday or day trip, and that the community in question would have a scarcity of vehicles (considering that Romania is choked with cars, I can't imagine that "car" would automatically be perceived as a status symbol, though I could be wrong about this). I was picturing my vehicular excursions more in the manner of hiring or borrowing a vehicle for a specific purpose--a scenic road trip, say, or taking students somewhere as part of a lesson.
Regardless of the reason, none of us can drive anything motorised, anywhere in Romania--it's one of the few rules that is grounds for automatic termination of service, with no consideration or room for negotiation. And though I haven't specifically asked why this is, I would imagine that it's a combination of the reason my recruiter gave--viz., not appearing exceedingly wealthy in the eyes of your community--and then a safety and diplomatic issue. Apparently one of the leading causes of volunteer deaths back in the '70's was motorcycle crashes; and, someone who is essentially a US government employee potentially getting in some manner of vehicular accident with a host country national could turn into a diplomatic clusterfuck pretty quickly.
When I first arrived, I had no problem with the no-driving rule, especially after watching the way people drove in Ploieşti ... it seemed more like a saving grace than a restriction. Being accustomed as I was to the American style of driving (certainly not without its flaws, but benefiting from familiarity), it seemed more like an unorganised free-for-all than a system with any semblance of order, or at times even a vested desire to keep people alive and unharmed. There were major intersections devoid of traffic lights, large two-way streets without even a painted divider between the opposing directions, nary a lane line in sight, cars taking random turns as the fancy struck and driving on sidewalks with impunity. It seemed utterly reckless and completely inscrutable, and I was immensely grateful that, on top of all the other cultural variances we would have to learn to navigate, driving would not be an additional requirement.
But after spending some time in cars driven by other people, instead of just observing from the sidewalk or out the tram window, I feel like there's some logic to it, as though I've been able to filter some signal from the cacophony of noise that it originally seemed to be. And while city driving still doesn't seem like much fun (but then, I can't really think of any place where city driving is much fun), I feel like I would enjoy tackling not only the new set of urban traffic rules, but driving the national roads as well.

One of the interesting things about driving here is that nearly everyone uses a manual transmission (at least, outside of the big cities, where automatics seem slightly less exotic). I assumed, when I first discovered this, that this would automatically mean that everyone was also a superior driver of the manual transmission. Unfortunately, this assumption was completely unfounded, and after growing sadly accustomed to listening to people grinding their way through their gears and watching cars that seemed more often to hop than actually roll, I was able to figure out the flaw in my reasoning. I'd assumed that ubiquitousness equated proficiency. However, the opposite seems to be the case. Sit back and light a pipe as I pontificate for a moment.
When we in America, land of the automatic transmission, learn to drive a manual, we do so by choice, and therefore make a conscious effort to learn. We endure the embarrassing period of stalling out, grinding gears, the horrible vibrating that comes from the engine running too slowly in a particular gear. We badger and berate our friends who have stick shifts, we take lessons, we research the mechanics behind our transmissions on the internet. We're a special breed, who are learning out of preference rather than necessity. Here, where for the most part it isn't an option, driving a manual is just ... what there is. Fewer people invest the interest or energy in learning to do it well, because doing so was never a choice for them. It's not looked at as a point of pride to do it well because it's not seen as impressive here, the way it is there.
This isn't to say that everyone here seems to be trying to do active harm to their vehicles whilst driving. I've been in the car with people who both drive well and seem very comfortable with it. However, I've also been in the car with people who forget to shift up or down, seem utterly unaware of the existence and purpose of fifth gear, downshift at too-high speeds and elicit fears of whiplash, and generally don't seem to regard the piloting of a manual transmission as a "skill", but just a necessary evil attached to getting from point A to point B.

Misunderstanding democracy

Students here don't get "free periods" in school, in the way American students do. There is no such thing as study hall, or even lunch period; all that's given here is "pauza", which is the ten minutes that falls between the end of one lesson hour and the beginning of the next. There is usually a lot of insanity that occurs during this time, as kids are running around, buying/eating food, burning off energy, socialising, finishing their homework for the next hour. These ostensibly ten-minute (usually more like 15-20) periods are unlike anything that an American public school teacher would expect to see more than two or three times during their teaching career, and are the times when I usually feel that I'm less of a teacher and more of a cross between a zookeeper and a prison warden in the midst of a full-scale riot. It's not irregular to see students beating up on one another, throwing food, pushing each other down the stairs, screaming and yelling at the top of their lungs, running in and out of each others' classrooms vandalising things and stealing other students' notebooks.
Responsibility for supervising schoolyard activity falls to various teachers, depending on the day, and I've taken to joining one of my English teaching colleagues during her stints "on duty". It's interesting to observe how students handle having only brief breaks in between classes to do anything from homework to eating to running to the washroom, and still manage to get up to all manners of antics within that short period. Recently, during one of these periods of insanity in an already trying teaching day, I got to thinking about how Peace Corps had told us, before we departed for Romania, that Romanian schoolchildren were very quiet and well-behaved, obedient of authority, and that often it would be difficult to get them to speak in class as a result.

I have to admit, those few sentences caused me a fair amount of mental anguish when I first started teaching, as nearly all of my students were the diametric opposite of this. Loud, chatty, getting up and moving around the classroom, getting in arguments, not paying attention to the lesson, talking over me or interrupting me as I tried to present material. And, since "Romanian schoolchildren are obedient", I assumed that it must be me, that there was something wrong with my teaching or my approach that made them so unruly in my presence. I wondered if it was because I was the foreigner, because I wasn't Romanian and they didn't look at me in the same way they looked at their other teachers, if it was because I approached discipline differently or because the previous volunteer seemingly did nothing but play games with them. I finally came to realise that, far from being an anomaly, this was the normal behaviour of these students, and that though it's true that they were giving me more trouble--much in the way that kids will misbehave with a substitute teacher who doesn't know all the classroom rules--their behaviour was more the norm than the exception, and I couldn't attribute it entirely to incompetent classroom management on my part.
When my colleague wandered back over I commented idly on this phenomenon; namely, how the information given in my organisation's literature seemed to be wildly out of the norm with regards to the reality of the circumstances. I told her about how I'd expected to have a bunch of silent, stony-faced children sitting in desks, hands folded, listening primly to whatever I said, writing it all down verbatim, and not saying a word, even when asked questions or given the opportunity to present input. I didn't really expect an answer, as even under the most ideal circumstances I tend toward the contemplative and overly pontificating, and often things I comment on have equal potential as either questions to spark debate or vocalised internal musings. Now, living someplace where I don't really get to have serious, involved conversations with anyone about anything, I've grown disappointingly accustomed to throwing out comments that, with my circle of friends, would start conversation-debates that could burn down a weekend … and instead of opinions, analysis, discussion and argument, getting absolutely nothing back. A stone dropped into a void.
So I was rather surprised when my comment about the divergence between scripture and reality as it relates to Romanian schoolchildren got an immediate response. They used to be like that, she said musingly, when she was a student. Children were obedient and respectful and behaved properly in school. Intrigued, as she's not nearly old enough to be playing the "when I was young everything was wonderful" card, I asked her what she thought had caused the change between her school days and the current crop of students. She then came out with one of the meatiest comments I've gotten from her in nearly a year spent working together; she said "They misunderstood democracy".

As she explained it, when the revolution came in 1989, it brought a lot of freedoms … perhaps too many, at least all at once. People were so accustomed to living under the yoke of Communism, having huge chunks of their lives monitored and regulated by the state, that when that omnipresence was lifted, they didn't know what to do with the newfound freedom. People who had grown up with Communism were now raising their own children in democracy, and it was bewildering; they passed the freedom they had been given on to their children, allowing them to grow up without the rules that they had had to live with. In some ways this was good; removing a lot of the arbitrary regulations handed down by the state allowed people to take more control and direction in their own lives. But in some ways it was also bad, as some people didn't know what to do with all this freedom, something they'd never experienced before. So they abandoned not only the state-mandated rules, but also the familial and interpersonal rules, and their children grew up without the structure and discipline that had helped their parents figure out what was right and wrong, what kind of behaviour was acceptable or not acceptable. In wanting to give their children everything they hadn't had, they gave them too much, and the children in turn became disrespectful and uncontrollable. It seems like a classic case of paving the road to Hell with good intentions.

Snap, crackle, pop ... goes the outlet

There are a lot of things here that don't seem to be as meticulously constructed--or, perhaps, not subject to the stringent codes and requirements--as what I'm used to from where I grew up. I've watched several houses go up in a few different areas, and not once has any of them been built by a contractor; it's always just the owners/friends/relatives pitching in laying bricks or putting in foundation. At the Habitat for Humanity site we worked on last summer, I saw people pouring concrete over piles of trash--even a couple of empty, capped, 2L beer bottles--and found myself wondering how long it would be before that concrete started breaking up and resembling the rubble I'm so used to seeing in place of sidewalks. When I visited a fellow volunteer in Buzău I saw a building whose ground-floor window ledge was unfinished, and upon closer inspection of the exposed cross-section I realised that one of the constituent layers of the wall was styrofoam. When the flushing mechanism in my toilet broke and I removed the tank lid to locate the damaged component, I found myself wondering "hmm ... where will I find a replacement for the acetone bottle" ... and so on.
This seemingly lackadaisical approach to construction also seems to extend into the electrical sphere. The most obvious piece of evidence is that, especially in older homes and flats, there aren't nearly enough outlets to keep up with the electricity demand, and as such these old, sketchy wiring systems are being asked to supply an unprecedented demand for power. The extension cord/power strip combos I see here more often than not look a little blackened or charred (melted, in a couple of disconcerting cases) around the plugholes, and there are a few lights in my apartment that flicker consistently unless just the right finesse is used when flipping the switches on. A similar attention to detail is also necessary quite often, when plugging in items, as if they deviate a few microdegrees from the optimal positioning and angle they won't receive the benefit of the current. I've seen sparks fly when I've plugged in my laptop cord (!), and ever since am scrupulously diligent to plug the cord first into the strip, and then into the laptop, reversing the procedure when unplugging. Thank the gods for the transformer plug, with it's blackened contact nodes.
(I'd thought the worst electrical job I'd heard of had been in my friend's sister's house in northern California; she apparently bought the place from a guy who fancied himself to be somewhat handy around the house, and had done a lot of work and repairs on his own. It seems "handy" was an adjective that really only applied in his own mind, as there were places where carpet bulges conspired to trip you and send you stumbling into the half hammered-in nails that reached neverendingly for loose clothing. But the undisputed winner of this impromptu anthology of questionable home-repair work would have to be the "wiring job" he did in the finished basement. When they removed the outlet covers to have a look at his handiwork, they discovered that he had wired the room with ... extension cords. Just ran the cords through the walls and mounted the plugs so that they were flush with the outlet faceplates. I don't think I'd be surprised to find the same level of care and attention used here.)

By far the worst I've come across yet has to be at another fellow volunteer's flat. Once again, the lone outlet in one room services several electrical items--fortunately he has a high-quality power strip to handle demand and distribution. The outlet itself, however, is unquestionably dodgy, and at seemingly random times will start to make popping, sputtering noises that sound a little too similar to a frying pan full of slowly heating oil. He swears that he's seen sparks coming from it on a couple of occasions, and there have been times when he's unplugged everything jacked into it, just to be on the safe side. When I hear about a particular bloc building burning down in his town, I'm sure to know the reason why.

Today's random craving: Butterfingers

Yup. Butterfingers. Go figure.

I was never much of a Butterfinger eater as a child, or even as an adult. Outside of the "fun size" bars bestowed upon me at Halloween, I could probably count on one hand the number of times I consciously chose to eat one. I didn't hate them, but I didn't love them either.

One of the causes of this newfound desire would, I imagine, be the fact that around the Christmas holiday a fellow volunteer received a care package from home which contained a couple of bags of Butterfinger Minis. Fortunately for his compatriots here in Eastern Europe, he was generous with them, and something about the flavour, flaky texture, and low-quality chocolate coating was just heavenly. I generally like to think that I've refined my palate to the point where I no longer have much desire for most chocolate or candy easily found in a supermarket aisle--once I learned to recognise good-quality ingredients, the commonplace stuff lost a lot of its appeal--but the desire still pops up now and then. Sometimes it's a specific flavour or texture combination that can only be found in a certain food item (Milky Way Midnights would be an example of this), and sometimes it's simply that I haven't totally lost my taste for crap. It requires a specific mood or set of circumstances, but the times do come when I find myself really craving some overprocessed, packaged junk, and wilfully choose it over something of "quality".
I'd like to think that this is a good thing. Sure, it's nice to be able to eat a $500 meal and really appreciate it, to identify the complexity of flavours and understand the creativity and imagination that is required to come up with ingredient pairings and new cooking techniques, to marvel at the skill necessary to construct the experience. I enjoy being able to winnow my desires down to something very specific because I've got an accumulation of familiarity with a wide range of foods, and the enjoyment that comes from satisfying that obscure desire. I even enjoy cooking experimentation, trying out on my own what combinations will work well, or having enough basic knowledge to do some culinary off-roading, looking at a recipe and figuring out how to tweak it so that it will be closer to my preferences, or cannibalising several different recipes and putting the pieces together to get a Frankensteinian dish that is quite good, while bearing little resemblance to the originals that went into its creation.

But being able to appreciate, perhaps not simplicity, but (more pejoratively) lowbrow culinary pursuits is also a valuable skill to have. Still being able to enjoy a regular candy bar, or product off a shelf that can be found anywhere, is something I'm very happy I can still do. There's a whole realm of experience and culture that goes along with tacos from a drive-thru, ravioli out of a can, hot dogs from the dive on the corner, fried chicken served through bulletproof glass, cupcakes with injected cream filling and frosting that peels off in one solid disc if you're careful enough. And the lowly, lovely Butterfinger. Would that you could be found here.

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